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| Blade length | 150 mm |
| Overall length | 310 mm |
| Teeth | 17 TPI (hardwood) / 20 TPI (softwood) |
| Blade thickness | 0,4 mm |
| Kerf | 0,45 mm |
| Blade material | SK85 |
| Country of manufacture | Japan |
| In the box | saw with blade fitted, ready to use |
Rip teeth (Japanese tate-me) cut along the grain and work like a row of small chisels, lifting the shaving in the direction of the fibres. Crosscut teeth (yoko-me) are filed to a knife edge and sever the fibres before the material releases. The wrong tooth will still cut, but the surface tears and progress slows — crosscut teeth along the grain are sluggish, rip teeth across it tear the face.
On most saws the teeth are bent to the sides so the kerf is wider than the blade and the blade cannot bind. This is called set. On a flush cut saw set would be a liability: a tooth bent outwards would scratch the very surface you are cutting flush to. So this saw's teeth lie in line with the blade, and the blade is thin and flexible (0,4 mm, 0,45 mm kerf) so it can lie flat against the work.
The blade is Japanese SK85 carbon steel, with the tooth tips induction-hardened separately. That makes the tips considerably harder than the rest of the blade and multiplies service life — but it also means the teeth cannot be filed like those of a traditional saw. On a Japanese saw the blade is the consumable: when it dulls you change the blade, not the saw. The handle, back and hardware last for decades.
The handle is beech, stained a rich mahogany colour and shaped so the grip stays secure even with the saw held flat against the surface — exactly what flush cutting demands. There is no rattan wrap, because a wrap would lift the hand off the surface. The hardware is solid brass and the blade is changed with it.
The blade is a consumable. The replacement blade for this saw is TT-F-6B — when the cut starts to tear or the saw needs force, change the blade, not the saw.
Wipe the blade dry after use and oil it lightly with camellia oil or another non-oxidising oil — carbon steel rusts quickly in a damp shop. Store the saw so the teeth touch nothing hard. Changing the blade takes a few minutes by releasing the brass hardware, with no special tools.
Temple Tool Co. was co-founded by two people. Chris Schoenberg is a full-time furniture maker known as Third Coast Craftsman. He used Japanese saws for close to a decade and designed them for other Japanese saw companies serving the US market before starting his own line. Takashi Morita has spent years bringing fine Japanese tools to customers around the world. The aim was to blend Western and Japanese craftsmanship, quality and design in one tool — and at the same time to describe Japanese tools honestly and accurately rather than building mystique around them. The saws are crafted in Japan.
Brand: Temple Tool
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The calculations are based on the Grenke leasing price list, which does not include insurance. Insurance is compulsory and the customer can either purchase their own insurance or take it out with the same contract. Leasing financing is only granted to companies with a valid business ID.
Lease period 12-72 months.
Leasing prices VAT 0.
Option to redeem at the end for your own final delivery price, which will be shown under the product and in the summary. The minimum final delivery price is 70€ VAT 0.
After placing an order with leasing financing, you will receive within 1-2 days by email the contracts for electronic signature.
If you wish to use your own insurance, the leasing company will require a certificate of insurance showing the following:
A flush cut saw is the only saw that trims a dowel, tenon or trim piece perfectly level with the surrounding surface without scratching it. That needs two things this saw has: teeth with no set and a flexible 0.4 mm blade that can be pressed flat against the work.
A Western saw cuts on the push. Pushing puts the blade in compression, so it has to be thick enough not to buckle — and a thick blade leaves a wide kerf. A Japanese saw cuts on the pull stroke, which puts the blade in tension and keeps it straight even when it is paper-thin. That gives three advantages: a narrower kerf, less wasted material and markedly less effort. The precision is not a matter of style but a direct consequence of physics. The lower effort is also why a pull saw suits a beginner as well as a professional: a saw you never have to force is a saw that does not wander off the line.
Both edges carry crosscut teeth but at different pitch: one edge is for hardwood (17 TPI) and the other for softwood (20 TPI). Use the edge that matches the material — the wrong edge still cuts, but leaves a rougher surface.
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